Unprinted Patterns:

Does the thought of working with an unprinted vintage sewing pattern make you cringe? Here are some ideas and definitions that will help make the job a little easier.

Before you begin, If the pattern is not too fragile, ironing and tracing the vintage pattern pieces may be a wise idea. Vintage pattern pieces are easily damaged from the pinning and cutting process.  This small step will help to preserve the original pattern.

Large Double Perforations:
~~ Used in cutting
~~ They show you how to lay the pattern on the right grain of your material. If the double perforations are not placed exactly as directed the garment will twist
~~ The perforations form a line which are placed either:

•     Lengthwise (parallel to the selvedges)
•     Crosswise (run across the material from selvedge to selvedge)

Large Triple Perforations:
~~ Used in cutting
~~ Are always laid on a fold of the material (lenghtwise, crosswise or bias fold)

Small Double Perforations:
~~ Always used to mark the natural waistline
~~ Are also used to indicate the elbow or outlines of the neck

Large & Small Single Perforations:
~~ Used either alone or together
~~ Their use is always shown on the instruction sheet

Let-Out Seams:
~~ Marked by large single perforations
~~ The basting line should run exactly throught the center of these perforations.
~~ Deeper than ordinary seams. They are made so on purpose, so that they can be let out if it is necessary to make any slight alteration to suit the individual figure.

Ordinary Seams:
~~ Not marked by perforations, but are to be basted exactly 3/8 inch from the seam edge
~~The seam lines must be followed exactly. If you make any seam deeper or narrower, you will alter the size of the garment