Pattern Dating
Tips for finding the date of a vintage pattern

Hints for determining the date of your vintage pattern.

Not all of the major companies dated their patterns in the same way.  Some placed the dates on the envelopes, some placed the dates on the instruction sheets & others didn't date the patterns at all.

The following chart shows some of the procedures different companies used:

ADVANCE Most patterns were undated
BUTTERICK Patterns were undated
HOLLYWOOD Patterns were undated
MC CALL'S

Most from the 1940's to today were dated

Dated at various points on the envelops: Bottom, right side, around top flap

MAIL ORDER Patterns were undated
SIMPLICITY

 

1960's - Present: Top back of pattern envelop

 

Pre 1960's - 2nd page of instruction sheet

VOGUE

 

1950's - Most are dated

 

Dated on instruction sheet - front bottom left corner

 


It is easy to find a printed date on a vintage pattern to determine the date. But what happens if there is no date to be found? 
That can make things a little more difficult.  The manufacturers often re-issued the numbering sequences so simply using the pattern number will be of little value
.

 

Here are a few tips that can help determine the age:

Envelope styles - The pattern manfacturers changed the look of their envelopes. Quite often the graphics on the envelope can help in determining the pattern's age.

Hollywood patterns are usually from the 1930's/40's.
These patterns often had actresses pictured.  If you know the name of the actress & movie being promoted that is a good indication of the pattern date.

Simplicity's envelope styles changed quite often over the years.  Look  for a particular design feature on the envelope to determine the era of the pattern

McCall switched to McCall's in 1951

Vintage pattern magazines or vintage pattern catalogs can be used for comparison

The original cost of the pattern. One thing to consider is a more elaborate style equaled a higher price
 
Knowing the clothing & hair styles of a particular era

A WORD ABOUT PATTERN SIZING

Patterns that were manufactured before 1940 usually only had the bust or breast measurement noted on the envelope.

During the 1940's, the envelopes began noting both the bust & the hip measurements. The waist measurement was often not noted.

The actual pattern size changed over the decades. Up until approximately 1955-1956 a size 12 was reserved for a 30 inch bust / breast measurement.  By the time the mid 1950's rolled around a size 12 was reserved for a 32 inch bust / breast measurement. The mid 1960's brought about another change that remains constant until this day, a size 12 was for a 34 inch bust / breast.

 
How Pattern Styles Have Changed & Evolved Over The Decades:


Late 1800's to Early 1900's:

The first patterns were on unprinted tissue paper. They required matching up notches and holes to make the garment. The envelopes were black & white with very simple illustrations.  .

1920's & 1930's:

The illustrations were printed in color. The major companies were Simplicity, McCall, Butterick, Vogue & Advance.

1940's:
This decade was the heyday of fashion.  Beautiful styles, colors & dresses were very popular. Mail-order patterns from companies like Marian  Martin & Ann Adams were increasing in popularity.
Hollywood
patterns depicting actresses were becoming very popular.

1950's:
Patterns during this decade were now being printed. Rockabilly styles, halter dresses, wiggle dresses 
& circle skirts were very popular. McCalls added the 'S' to their name. The most popular patterns were Vogue Special Design & Simplicity Designer Originals.

1960's:
The patterns in this decade began having models instead of illustrations. Jackie Kennedy & her signature style were the most popular designs. The MOD styles became popular in the latter part of this decade.

1970's:
These patterns were the hippie age. The envelopes started featuring famous models. The styles were becoming less dressy. Pants were quite common. 

 

Vintage Hairstyles & Clothing Trends

 1930's -
 Short Bobbed Hair

 1940's -
Shoulder length hair curled under
Suits were very common
The styles use little fabric because of War Conservation

 1950's -
Short hair
The styles had more fabric due to the end of the War
Full skirts were common
White gloves were worn with day suits
Big, boxy purses

1960's - 

EARLY                                                                
Slim skirted suits
Boxy jackets
Pillbox hats


MID -
Short hair
Cute, slim dresses
Space age boxy jackets or dresses
Hair in a high bun with trendils by the ears


LATE
- Long hair
Hair bands were common
Braid trim on dresses
Mini, midi & maxi styles were all in one pattern

 1970's -
Shoulder length or long hair with bounce
Slim styles - more conservative than the 60's
Long flowing outfits

 1980's -
 Big hair
Big shoulder pads
Big bouffant dress styles



 

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